Farming - the future

Today is one of our few early starts (or so i keep telling John), Safari jeep tour at 7.30am.

Deepak meets us with an apology for being 8 minutes late in his ex US military jeep.

Deepak's tourism lies in educating foreign tourists and local people the importance of the land. The Government are aiming to improve irrigation and farming methods to encourage families to stay in the country rather than go to the already bulging towns. When it happens the growing season is July to September so the farmers must diversify to get by the rest of the year.

Firstly we visit a Muslim family who make round bottomed the water pots still in use today. I make my first purchase, a tiny magic lamb pot, 100 rupees (about £1). I'm not sure if it will survive the journey home in my rucksack.

The next house is of a Vishnu family. Mother invites us into her house (1 room) and makes us hot sweet chai, her two children like their photo taken and then to look. Vishnu people keep only buffalo for milk, ghee and manure. They don't keep cows or chickens because they are a vegan people. Deepak tells us they are the original tree huggers and will protect their trees until death. The next experience John and I don't know what to expect, an opium ceremony and we 're both anxious not to take part. Fortunately the man carries out his blessing and kindly takes another daily tonic for himself. Here we are asked to make a contribution, I'm not sure how we feel about that but hope mother keeps the purse strings for her lovely tea.

The Boshnoi family weave carpets and we know a purchase is expected. We have bought a small rug (about 3,500 rupees) and are happy with our purchase and contribution to the friendly community.

The last stop I would describe as a working warehouse where we see the machinists and cutters. The warehouse is to give work to and empower the women. We're not far from the Indian/Pakistan border so some are war widows with families to feed. The work is exquisite, some traditional garments redesigned into wall hangings and some new designs. Silk throws, camel hair throws (much softer than you'd expect), 100% pashmina, needle turned quilts, the samples keep on coming.

This is it, the fine line always arises between being shown and being expected to buy. Tempted by the camel throw (about 4,000 rupees) though we are, fortunately John and I don't agree on a colour (must be a sign!) so we decline - prices here are reaching hundreds of pounds and we didn't come to furnish an already over full house. Besides, what I buy I must carry!

I've loved this mornings trip and feel positive for the future in people like Deepak. I'm so glad we visited Dehli but it sapped my energy. I guess this goes further to endorse I am country mouse not town mouse.

Also on our safari adventure we saw antelope, Indian gazelle, peacocks, and farmers herding sheep and goats.

Having missed breakfast we are ready for our lunch (a welcome feeling, we seem to constantly be encouraged to eat) and ask Deepak for a recommendation. He drops us off at Gypsy -a thali restaurant. One choice, vegetarian thali and we have the full attention of 15 or so waiters constantly topping up our thali dishes (175 rupees each). The head waiter who's not afraid of feeling our food first, shows us how to eat and combine the dishes of dhal, rice, poories, etc.

It's a great choice and we enjoy the atmosphere and experience.