A fine balance

Thursday 3 January - we're up and out at 6am for a dawn boat ride along the ghats. We witness some funeral pyres next to the ghats where men are taking their early morning constitutional (chilly) dip in the Ganges. There are lots of little boats out and about so the water is soon lit with the little biodegradeable dishes containing marigolds, roses and a wax light.

After returning to Hotel Surya for breakfast its a mystery tour, our driver today speaks instructional English and we've forgotten our itinerary which only adds to the fun.

At Sarnath Temple, museum and our thoughts turn to a Buddhist way of life. It's quite easy to embrace the peace amidst the chanting monks and the tourists.

We're not really bothered about our lunch stop when we are deposited at Brownie Wood, but we go in and have a Pepsi. However, Brownie Wood is another surprise, like being in a hippie tent with Buddhist murals and low lighting. There are some really unusual paintings of the Ghats we like and best of all, the first time we've seen samosas on a menu and they don't disappoint.

After an hour or so respite at the hotel it's off again to the evening Ghat ceremony. We go early on at 4pm, probably a bit too early and have a couple of hours wandering along the Ghats.

The evening is an emotional roller coaster of feelings ranging from irritation to compassion; beggars, guys offering boat rides, funeral pyres, Europeans in hippie clothes probably on a quest to find themselves, children flying hundreds of kites, sadhus, monks, the blind, the self mutilated, cows chewing through rubbish, cow pats, dogs, red betel nut spits, urine, the man who before you know it plonks a bindi on your forehead then sticks an offering tray under your nose and the lady who finds any platform such as folded arms or a camera to put down an offering of marigolds for the Ganges in anticipation of rupees. Our guide from this morning finds us and adds to the test of my tolerance. He's nice enough and we enjoyed his time this morning but now I want to enjoy the relative peace of the ceremony, if possible amidst thousands of people and I don't really need chatter. Furthermore he says he's been waiting for us all day to to guide us round Sarnath and walk the Ghats, when we made it clear the boat ride was enough this morning. Like a spoilt child, perhaps I'm tired.

The ceremony is a special experience though and a true test of mindfulness whilst being jostled by the aforementioned list (oh, the kites have gone, it's too dark and the cows have nestled down by the shore line).

A speedy drive through the heavy traffic and a quick turnaround for dinner at the Radisson Hotel courtesy of Magic Tours of India. We're not really sure why, maybe because of our delayed journey yesterday, but it's very kind. While we sip our Kingfisher beers and stop spinning we're invited four times to take our food from the buffet.

A few different things I notice in Varanasi:

Streets - an obstacle course of cow pats and rubbish but the smells of hot ghee and kerosene are not so intense (or am I getting used to it?).
Begging - you never get used to it, but here I notice more small children, babies and cripples.
Less 'horning' - the expression for using the car horn. Though our driver here is keen to horn and take on the surrounding bikes, cycle rickshaws and oncoming traffic.
Spitting - it's as common as men peeing but I'm curious. How do they get so much spit? John and I have discussed the few spitting stories in our life and combined we couldn't compete. I guess the paan and bettell nut chewing must be a saliva catalyst.
Dogs - stray dogs are everywhere in India, but in Varanasi the dogs are distinctly flea ridden.