What we saw

Friday 28 December - drive from Jodphur to Jaipur - 7 hours via Pushkar

2 men & 4 goats on a moped
Family of 5 on a moped
Overloaded Tata trucks
Women getting water from wells
Men peeing by the road
Sadhus
Sign saying 'coming up hotel'
Next sign saying 'up coming hotel'
Boar pigs
Cows
John wearing string bracelet given by holy man at Pushkar (& still has it on!)
Undertaking
Overtaking
Ladies in pretty saris
Men carrying rocks on trays on their head
Women carrying sticks/straw/water pots on their heads
Children flying kites on roof tops
People pouring water on their heads at Pushkar lake
Women walking in flip flops with socks on
A cow in the back of a truck
Tata trucks with 'HORN PLEASE' written on the back
Goats

Farming - the future

Today is one of our few early starts (or so i keep telling John), Safari jeep tour at 7.30am.

Deepak meets us with an apology for being 8 minutes late in his ex US military jeep.

Deepak's tourism lies in educating foreign tourists and local people the importance of the land. The Government are aiming to improve irrigation and farming methods to encourage families to stay in the country rather than go to the already bulging towns. When it happens the growing season is July to September so the farmers must diversify to get by the rest of the year.

Firstly we visit a Muslim family who make round bottomed the water pots still in use today. I make my first purchase, a tiny magic lamb pot, 100 rupees (about £1). I'm not sure if it will survive the journey home in my rucksack.

The next house is of a Vishnu family. Mother invites us into her house (1 room) and makes us hot sweet chai, her two children like their photo taken and then to look. Vishnu people keep only buffalo for milk, ghee and manure. They don't keep cows or chickens because they are a vegan people. Deepak tells us they are the original tree huggers and will protect their trees until death. The next experience John and I don't know what to expect, an opium ceremony and we 're both anxious not to take part. Fortunately the man carries out his blessing and kindly takes another daily tonic for himself. Here we are asked to make a contribution, I'm not sure how we feel about that but hope mother keeps the purse strings for her lovely tea.

The Boshnoi family weave carpets and we know a purchase is expected. We have bought a small rug (about 3,500 rupees) and are happy with our purchase and contribution to the friendly community.

The last stop I would describe as a working warehouse where we see the machinists and cutters. The warehouse is to give work to and empower the women. We're not far from the Indian/Pakistan border so some are war widows with families to feed. The work is exquisite, some traditional garments redesigned into wall hangings and some new designs. Silk throws, camel hair throws (much softer than you'd expect), 100% pashmina, needle turned quilts, the samples keep on coming.

This is it, the fine line always arises between being shown and being expected to buy. Tempted by the camel throw (about 4,000 rupees) though we are, fortunately John and I don't agree on a colour (must be a sign!) so we decline - prices here are reaching hundreds of pounds and we didn't come to furnish an already over full house. Besides, what I buy I must carry!

I've loved this mornings trip and feel positive for the future in people like Deepak. I'm so glad we visited Dehli but it sapped my energy. I guess this goes further to endorse I am country mouse not town mouse.

Also on our safari adventure we saw antelope, Indian gazelle, peacocks, and farmers herding sheep and goats.

Having missed breakfast we are ready for our lunch (a welcome feeling, we seem to constantly be encouraged to eat) and ask Deepak for a recommendation. He drops us off at Gypsy -a thali restaurant. One choice, vegetarian thali and we have the full attention of 15 or so waiters constantly topping up our thali dishes (175 rupees each). The head waiter who's not afraid of feeling our food first, shows us how to eat and combine the dishes of dhal, rice, poories, etc.

It's a great choice and we enjoy the atmosphere and experience.

Maharani Magic

Boxing Day -

After breakfast Pradeep took us to Mehrangarh Fort. The fort is the one you see in all the tour guides, red stone, tiny screened windows and balconies.

The Fort is beautiful and sweeps you back to another time of veiled ladies, twinkling mirrors and marauding men. It is proudly restored by the royal family and managed with the right amount of sideshows and hawkers.

We then visited Jaswant Thada, Rajasthan's Taj Mahal made with near translucent marble.

After lunch at 'On the rocks' seemingly a popular venue for western and local tourists we went to a polo match.

The idea was recommended by the hotel owner, a former player, who proudly showed us his photograph of Prince Phillip meeting his father. The hotel walls are adorned with original sepia photographs of a bygone era.

Mr Singh informed us that the umpire today is English. We arrive at the enormous field and walk along to see the horses. A guy with a familiar southern accent asks us if we're English and we ask him to explain the rules briefly. He tells us he used to play but now he umpires and coaches a little.

The polo is really enjoyable, we watch the final two chukkas of a game in play, then a new game between Desert Warriors and Southern Stars.

Back at Ratan Villas we do some research on Jason Dixon, the umpire - just happens he does know a bit about the game of kings, he is former Captain of England's polo team.

Merry Christmas, Sir/Madam

It was past 7am when I looked at the time. I leaned over my bunk, John was also awake so I moved down. We whispered 'Happy Christmas' and sat and watched the passing alien scene through a tiny dusty window.

Knobbly trees and vast arid land for the next 3 hours, broken up by a couple of rock quarries where we quickly spotted turbaned men walking in a line carrying stones.

On arrival at Jodphur station we said our 'goodbyes' to Sunni who kindly gave us his card if we needed him and we wished the family a happy wedding feast.

Three hours or so behind schedule at 10 am it was lovely to see the smiling face of Pradeep who had driven the 23 or so hours to be our driver. We hadn't known Pradeep would continue to be our driver until we got to Dehli, but this is how it is done.

Pradeep drove us to Ratan Villas where we were charmingly welcomed and breakfast was made for us amidst the scent of marigolds and roses.

Christmas Day Breakfast: spicy omelette, toast, orange, coffee and masala chai.

The sun is shining so at last chance for a dribbly sleep (Sam) by the pool. John swam - its not really warm enough for that.

In the evening we chose Deepa's recommended restaurant on the rooftop of the Blue City beneath Mehrangarh Fort. We shared a vegetable thali and the local dish Lal Maars (Rajasthan slow roast mutton) - delicious.

Moving on

Monday, Christmas Eve, we set out late morning, knowing we had a long day ahead.

Our driver, Khan, was of more mature years than Pradeep and more of a horn honker, we enjoyed some political banter and his view of India and the world, along the journey.

We visited the Qut'b Minar Complex and Humayan's Tomb. Strolling around felt like some calm amidst the madness of Dehli, little did we know how good that would be before our rail journey. The sun peeped through the fog and smog just a little.

With the marches and protests still a key feature in Dehli our choices were limited and traffic slow so Khan suggested we take lunch in Pandara Road. Lunch was good, chicken tikka which is so tasty here and not something we'd think of at home since it usually has a processed taste.

The rest of the afternoon was spent hawking us around various markets and bazaars with traders trying their luck at our reluctance to buy anything. You can imagine the best market we enjoyed sold meat and veg. Delicious and fresh looking vegetables and more inners hanging than in a book of anatomy. If you were border line vegetarian, this would be the deal breaker.

Finally at 7pm our guide met us for our journey to Dehli Station. I don't know how far we travelled but imagine rush hour in London after a traffic signal failure. Interestingly in a moment of real life déjà vu John described Dehli Station just before we pulled up outside.

With our rucksacks on and snacks in hand our guide (thank goodness) tagged us onto the exodus of people.

No different to any other station the tannoy was near impossible to comprehend, but we did gather all trains were late, some by 3 hours. The cold air was biting and still determined to look like Julie Christie I was fashionably unsuitably dressed...and cold.

John and I were good spirited, if feeling like a couple if over aged students on a gap year! I couldn't see any other western faces just thousands of people looking at us as if to say 'why?' and crack beggars getting the best bench or corner for the night.

The train arrived a mere 40 minutes late, so not the 3 hour delayed one - phew! Our guide found our carriage and beds and left us to get settled. Within moments we were kindly asked if we would move to the partition next door, by two English speaking gentlemen of a family of 21 on their way to Jodphur to a family 3 day wedding. We were welcomed to the wedding and offered some food - my dreams had come true! (We didn't take up the invitation, tempting though it was).

Ironically our first bunks were at the end of the carriage, our movement along with an Indian businessman named Sunni moved us right into the heart of the family. I'm sure there must have been some logic somewhere.

At around 12pm curtains were drawn and beds made, as Sunni was a bit of a talker and on a bottom bunk I thought it more appropriate to go up top and leave the men to talk. Not so - Sunni was asleep and snoring within 10 mins.

Resigned to a night of no sleep I relaxed and remembered 'I had made my bed....' and concentrating on the rocking train drifted in and out of my dreams.

(There is a utube video of the Mandore Express).

On location

This morning my senses are overloaded.  Have you heard the cliched saying Westerners seem to come out with about India, used in movies and print? - 'it is an assault on the senses – all of them, nearly all of the time.'  It's so true!

Pradeep collected us with our student guide, Uma, this morning. Pradeep is an endearing chap who chuckles at the traffic he skilfully navigates through. Uma is cheery and level headed.

Arriving for the demo

Our first visit is to India Gate which is mainly blocked off but Pradeep perseveres until he finds a traffic calming barrier which hasn't made its way totally across the road. Crowds are assembling built up of police, soldiers, journalists, people and a new addition today, hundreds of revving motor bikes, there are daily protests following the gang rape of a student doctor last week. The people want the culprits dead, Uma says and the people will continue to make their voices heard.

The atmosphere isn't threatening to us in the slightest, it's Sunday and a free day for many to march for justice.  However Uma says this is the right time to be there, later in the day the crowds and police will become more antagonistic.

The mist is like thick soup, the locals have hats, gloves, scarves and jumpers on. It is 23 December and everyone tells us it will be the coldest day of the year. Fair enough, it's a long sleeve day. Uma points to India Gate and my eyes are staring ahead seeing nothing, and then suddenly I catch the edge of the framework of the red brick up and up. Looming out the thick fog the arch is huge, at 42 metres it is over twice the height of Marble Arch. Amazing.

India Gate through the haze

 Uma gets a call to say we can't go past the Presidential Palace because of the impending marches. Shame - Tom wanted us to to look at it having shared his knowledge of Lord Halifax and Ghandhi.

Next stop Dehli Metro where we give Uma the fright of her career! She jumps into an open carriage and the doors close, John and I aren't quite quick enough. Apparently she signalled that she'd come back, intrepid explorers (!) John and I missed the instruction and took the next train. Anyway after a couple of rides back and for between the stops we set out again together along to Chowri Bazaar.

We travel by cycle rickshaw, on foot and auto rickshaw. Pradeep's calmness in traffic has prepared us well for this experience - there's no point flinching, it does all in fact work, there is space and a code only they know. The short yellow traffic light boxes look similar to our speed cameras at home, John said if they were there would be at least ten number plates on each picture!

Besides my nose tells me I have other priorities - the richness of smells, vats of clarified hot butter, small fires burning, hot plastic, urine and other stuff makes me occasionally feel nauseous. I'm busily looking up and down, seeing everything but also watching out for random potholes, electric cables and other trip hazards.

Uma takes us to three temples, Jain where we ring the bell to let the gods know we are entering the house and are adopted by a man who gives us rice and signals at us to offer it to the gods. We try to look very righteous and enthusiastic that we are seeing the same enlightenment he is. A subdued frenzy builds and some of the gods are lifted out and washed with much smiling, adoration, gentle clapping and then they are carefully dried and put back.

Our man taps John and waves his finger at me - I think maybe he doesn't think John made a good wife choice or perhaps he is just looking more devout!

Catch those electrics!

At the Hindu temple Uma comes in with us, this is her place. She introduces us to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva along with many others. Uma touches the shrine of one of the female deities as a mark of respect. It is Sunday, today we worship the sun, Ravi (we should all try a bit harder, the locals are correct, it's positively chilly).

The final temple is Sikh, as in all the others we take off our shoes and socks, but prior to entering we walk through a warm foot bath and cover our head with a scarf. The Sikh temple is full of music and more worshippers. It's a day off for most, but Uma says these temples are always busy. The Sikh temple feeds 20,000 people each day in a huge hall, Uma took us to the kitchen where daily volunteers arrive to make flatbread, lentil soup and a pudding (clarified butter, sugar and flour). Uma joins the volunteers every year on her birthday.

Pradeep drives us back to Thikana, Uma takes her leave, I'm going for a sleep - it's 1pm and I am exhausted!

Lunch in Haldirams with Uma

Beep! Beep! Pip! Pip!

After a steady 7.5 hour flight we arrive to the scent of Dehli, warm, slightly spiced with just an occasional hint of a smell you don't want to think about.

December in New Dehli is winter and the locals have sweaters on and we're in shirt sleeves. John & I both started with a cold lurgy at the start of the week which instantly slips away with the gentle warmth in our bones. It's five years since we last went on holiday and felt the sun - this is welcome!

Pradeep meets us at the airport to take us to our driver, another Pradeep, and then to our first home stay, Thikara. Pradeep is a smiley confident young man, has two jobs, one full, one part time and is studying at home for a Masters in Tourism having done his degree in the US. He chats on while John & I listen in on his facts and figures and gaze out the window. Today is Shrinivar, Saturday.

We freshen up and anxious to keep on the move and enter our new Kolkata time zone accept Pradeep's plan of lunch in Defence Colony. We have a wander and choose Swagathi. The restaurant is busy, mainly with the 15 or so staff all charged with different tasks, standing, napkins, standing, serving, standing, serving drinks, standing, hammering in Christmas decorations. Yes, for everyone at home worried if we would get Christmas, we have it in tinsel spades!!!!


Deepa who has organised our itinerary and bookings Facebook'd me early yesterday to confirm a change in our first home stay. The website looks charming and Tripadviser reads amazing.

A few hours after our arrival at Thikara the owner, Atul arrives offers us a beer and suggests we order some chicken tikka wraps and says 'watch this film, funny as shit!' - Dehli Belly - it's hilarious. We sit in the lounge with other European guests laughing out load. LOL!!! x

Sam's henna hand